South African Sunset?

A photographers view

South Africa – land of golden light, towering mountains, infinite skies and massive locomotives – has long been a place of pilgrimage for steam photographers. Working steam ended here in 1992, but numerous tours have run ever since. However, in an environment of run-down and political change, these tours have become harder to organise. Ed Hurst reports on the experience of travelling on what might prove to be the last large-scale tour of this beautiful country.

The peace of a deserted station is punctured by the deep exhaust and powerful lines of a ‘25NC’ 4-8-4 crisply powering a long line of red and grey coaches around a sweeping curve. All around are craggy, stark hills and a vast African sky.

This scene epitomises the Bethlehem–Bloemfontein line running through the Eastern Free State of South Africa. It was graced by a constant procession of working steam until 1987. Somehow the train just looks right here in its natural habitat, as though it has never been away. Yet it is only running now because it marks the start of the ‘Three Provinces Tour’ organised by David Rodgers of Steam Loco Safari Tours. Although the pictures you see on these pages have a sense of permanence about them, it is likely that the tour that made them possible will be the last.

On this 15-day tour, 70 photographers were to experience once again what has always made South African steam incredible. We were also about to experience what makes running it in modern times a Herculean struggle. Most importantly of all, we were about to discover the incredible lengths to which people who care passionately about steam will go to make a trip like this work. We had no idea what an adventure we were in for…

Up at 4.30am…

This line was once an important cross-country railway, with train after train battling away across the hills. These days, it is little used, with only an occasional diesel-hauled freight. Standards of maintenance are not what they once were.

For a tour organiser trying to recreate a steam-era train, a uniform rake of 13 red and grey coaches, once so common, is no longer readily available. Fortunately, we had the considerable assistance of Reefsteamers which provided not only the coaches but also a support train consisting of wagons to carry coal, a mechanical grab, water tanks, footplate crews and enough people to serve the needs of the whole group. Quite an undertaking, but one now essential since the infrastructure of the steam era has largely gone.

In order to be in position by sunrise, we spent six nights on board the train. This statement somehow suggests that we could roll straight out of bed to a leisurely breakfast, into the fields to take pictures, then back to the bar, and finally back to bed in a reverie of photography and comfort. That impression would not be totally accurate! We would often rise at 4.30am in freezing conditions - but we all considered ourselves immensely lucky to have one last chance to indulge our own particular kind of madness.

It must have seemed a little odd to the locals to see a bunch of camera‑toting men, bleary‑eyed but full of enthusiasm, pulling freshly bought stepladders into tight formation before earnestly climbing up them and staring through their viewfinders. But this would be the first of many such occasions. People had come from the UK, Austria, Germany, France, Denmark, Canada, the USA and Singapore to experience a South Africa tour one more time. We would have the opportunity to visit some of the line’s classic spots, and were blessed with wonderful light.

Welsh Highland crews!

Before the tour even began, there had been high drama. It was once relatively easy to organise South African tours – steam era infrastructure was largely in place, and Transnet offered a single point of contact to ‘make things happen’. These days, the infrastructure is gone, many lines are closed, it is necessary to deal with local steam clubs, and Spoornet is in charge of line access and paths. But this was only the beginning!

Steam is now banned from night running and load limits are stringently set – both of which reduce operational flexibility. The original plan had included the George–Knysna line in The Cape, but that line’s closure due to flood damage put paid to that. Transnet Heritage Foundation then indicated that it could not provide the charter in The Cape due to lack of resources. This required a massive change of plan.

As it turned out, the changed itinerary worked in our favour: we basked in lovely sunshine whilst The Cape was deluged in prolonged rain! A panoply of detailed arrangements and plans was put together with coach operators, local clubs, hotels and countless other people, meticulously dealing with the logistics of the trip in the modern railway environment.

Just as things seemed to have come together, Spoornet suddenly imposed a blanket steam ban due to fire risk. Despite all the hard work, it looked like there would be no tour. It was a heartbreaking moment, not only because of the loss of the tour itself, but because of the financial risks that had been taken by all involved. However, somehow, through massive hard work, influence and persistence, our tour was allowed to take place. It was the only exception made to the steam ban. Profound thanks must go to Dave Rodgers, Elise Lubbe and many others for pulling it off. It had been a close run thing.

Spoornet’s own crews are not permitted to operate these locomotives any more, so they were present as pilotmen only. Incredibly, part of the operating solution involved using Welsh Highland Railway crews on the main line – all using up precious holiday. What an experience it was for these hardy souls, suddenly operating a 200‑ton locomotive for hundreds of miles. Even the complaints from a few moaning photographers that they were not making enough exhaust did not dampen their spirits! (See accompanying article from the footplate angle.)

We were lucky enough to have the use of ‘25NC’ 4-8-4 No. 3472, ‘15F’ 4-8-2 No. 3016 and ‘15CA’ 4-8-2 No. 2056 on this line – the last of which was only just ready in time following a long overhaul.

The tour itself, hard work as always, was tremendous fun. Many superb pictures were taken, always with the realisation at the backs of our minds that we may never have this experience again. We would have to contend with some interesting experiences, always living a charmed life and triumphing in the face of adversity. Whilst shunting at slow speed around the loops at Fouriesburg, the ‘15F’ ran over a derailer – which unfortunately did its job. In contrast to the bureaucracy that would ensue in Britain following a derailment, the locomotive was fully inspected and back in action within hours having sustained no damage at all.

Showing an admirable ability to improvise in the face of adversity, Dave came up with new plans ‘on the hoof’, giving us opportunities that were arguably better than what had originally been intended. It was not to be the last time he needed to do this…

No light, but lions

A few days later, the generator car on which we depended experienced a freak failure, meaning that we had no light, heating or hot water for two days. It also prevented the kitchen staff from cooking! This experience showed the wonderful spirit amongst the participants and the support crew. A small generator was borrowed so we could at least have a little power in the lounge car for a brief time whilst the train was parked at its stabling point. This was important in an era where photographers depend totally on battery chargers! The atmosphere as people ‘politely’ jockeyed for position around the briefly-active power points can only be imagined! Fitters worked on the generator all night, exhausting themselves in the process. This massive effort was appreciated by everyone, and eventually bore fruit.

It was at this time that two members of our party saw an animal in the distance that looked a little strange. As it strode across the platform at Ficksburg, they gazed at it curiously and dismissed it as a large dog or perhaps one of South Africa’s many types of antelope. A few hours later, an announcement was made to the group that we should exercise caution, and not go out at night, as a couple of lions had escaped from a local game reserve. The hilarity that went around the carriage at that moment was tinged with a certain anxiety!

We then visited the remarkable Sandstone Railway. Owned and managed by Sandstone Heritage Trust, this rapidly developing system runs through beautiful farmland, giving a flavour of narrow gauge action on an impressive scale. We saw three classes of locomotive, and travelled on a consist that included a ‘mid-train helper’ – an engine coupled in the middle of a rake to spread the strain. As our tour train came to collect us at the end of the day, we were treated to amazing sunset conditions in which a main line and narrow gauge train met. Just like old times!

A bit more drama

Living up to the tour’s name, we then transferred by coach to another Province, Kwazulu Natal. The landscape here is quite different in character, consisting of greener, rolling hills dotted with populous villages and their traditional rondaavals (round, hut-like buildings). In this Province, we received the considerable assistance of Umgeni Steam Railway. We were treated to two different types of Garratt, ‘GF’ 4-6-2+2-6-4 No. 2380 and ‘GMAM’ 4-8-2+2-8-4 No. 4074, both typical of this area. There were also two ‘19D’ 4-8-2s Nos. 2669 and 2685, one with the traditional-style tender and one with the Vanderbilt variant.

In an area where HIV has caused shockingly low life expectancy, many people in this area are too young to have seen steam before. So we created quite a stir, most of it good natured.

Many people in our group shared food with local children. Their skinny bodies explained why they were so enthusiastic about receiving it. This is a country still riven with huge inequalities and social problems, but visitors are always touched by how positive and joyful the local people are. It is perhaps not surprising that preserving and operating steam are not priorities for many people in South Africa, especially when it is associated strongly with the period of white apartheid rule.

We spent seven days in the Province travelling on the Cape–Natal main line (between Deepdale, Donnybrook and Riverside), explored the lines radiating from Pietermaritzburg and had a day on the nearby Paton Country Railway at Ixopo. This 2ft gauge line is a remnant of a route that once joined the Cape Gauge line at Donnybrook and ran to Umzinto. We were treated to an ‘NGG11’ Garratt, an earlier design than the ‘NGG16s’ with which visitors to the Welsh Highland Railway will be familiar.

It was here that we had our greatest and worst luck. Whilst travelling down a steep grade, the train appeared to get out of control. To many of us on board, the speed seemed to be getting progressively higher than was safe. Seeing a steeper grade ahead, several of us jumped from the train, though the train was successfully stopped on a short stretch of level track.

As a precaution, the organiser decided to terminate the charter’s journey on that line with immediate effect. Quite what took place here is not yet clear, and is subject to a full investigation. However, it is safe to say that the tour participants felt fortunate once again that things had turned out fine.

With Kwazulu Natal behind us, we travelled by internal flight to Johannesburg. Before returning home, we had two days on the nearby Rayton–Cullinan line in Gauteng Province, where we used both the ‘15CA’ and ‘24’ 2-8-4 No. 3664. This offered yet another variation in scenery and atmosphere, the assistance here once again being provided by FoTR.

Was it the last?

The ‘Three Provinces Tour’ was a remarkable achievement and an amazing experience. We were incredibly fortunate with the weather; in places that are noted for their variable weather, we had only a couple of days of indifferent light on the whole trip. The amount of hard work, goodwill, persistence and sheer luck that enabled it to take place at all was truly incredible.

The days are over when such a tour could happen with relative ease. Many believe that there will never be such a tour again in South Africa, though some people are talking about having a go, encouraged by the ever-passionate Reefsteamers. Who knows if they will succeed, especially as Spoornet still has a steam ban in place during the months that tours generally run. But to everyone who made this trip possible, I extend my sincere and heartfelt thanks. You pulled off the seemingly-impossible. The pictures and memories are incomparable; I shall treasure them always.

Steam Loco Safari Tours, 21 Occupation Road, Lindley, Huddersfield,
HD3 3BD Tel: 01484 420638. E-mail: dcrslst@hotmail.com

“A couple of lions had escaped from a local game reserve. The hilarity that went around the carriage at that moment was tinged with a certain anxiety!”

“The pictures and memories are incomparable; I shall treasure them always.”

“Many believe that there will never be such a tour again in South Africa, though some people are talking about having a go.”

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE SLIDESHOW